How to Fix a Leaky Faucet (Any Type)

Learning how to fix a leaky faucet comes down to knowing which kind of faucet you have and finding the one worn part inside it. Most drips come from a cheap washer, a set of seals, or a cartridge you can replace with basic hand tools.

TL;DR

A drip from the spout that never stops almost always means a worn washer, seat and spring, or cartridge inside the handle.
A drip that lasts only a minute or two after shutoff is usually debris in the aerator; soak it in vinegar before buying parts.
Water around the base while the faucet runs points to worn O-rings; water under the sink points to a supply line, shutoff valve, or hose connection.
Shut off the supply valves, plug the drain, and take the old part to the store so you get an exact match.
A faucet dripping once per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons a year, according to EPA WaterSense.

What Causes a Leaky Faucet
Leak Location Chart: Spout, Base, Handle, or Under the Sink
How to Fix a Leaky Faucet Step by Step
What Not to Do
When to Call a Professional
How to Prevent It
FAQ

What Causes a Leaky Faucet

Every faucet has a valve under the handle plus a few seals that keep water inside the body. Which one wears out depends on how your faucet is built.

Worn Washer or Valve Seat (Compression Faucets)

Older two-handle faucets that you twist down to close are compression faucets. A rubber washer on the bottom of each stem presses against a brass seat to stop the water. When the washer hardens or the seat gets scored, water sneaks past and drips from the spout.

Worn Cartridge

Most modern single-handle and many two-handle faucets use a cartridge, a plastic or brass insert that controls flow and temperature. Moen and Kohler both name a worn cartridge as the usual reason for a spout that keeps dripping after you shut it off. Because cartridges differ by model, the replacement has to match your exact faucet.

Worn Seats and Springs

Ball faucets (one lever on a rounded cap) and some two-handle faucets use small rubber seats pushed up by springs. Delta notes that these seats and springs wear down with normal use and cause drips from the spout. They are inexpensive and sold in kits.

Dried-Out O-Rings and Seals

O-rings seal the stem, the cartridge, and the spout where it swivels on the body. Kohler explains that when water appears at the base of the spout only while the faucet runs, debris or wear on these seals is the likely culprit. Ceramic disc faucets also have three inlet seals that can wear and leak.

Debris in the Aerator

Kohler points out that a drip lasting only a minute or two after shutoff often comes from dirt or minerals trapped in the aerator, the screen on the spout tip, not a failed valve.

Loose or Worn Connections Under the Sink

Water in the cabinet is not always from the faucet itself. Moen separates under-sink leaks into two kinds: a constant leak usually comes from the shutoff valves or supply lines, while a leak that shows up only after use usually comes from the faucet’s hose connections. If the water is around the curved drain pipe instead, see our guide to fixing a slow sink drain and its trap.

Leak Location Chart: Spout, Base, Handle, or Under the Sink

Dry the faucet and cabinet, run the water, shut it off, and watch where water reappears.

Symptom	Likely cause	DIY or pro?
Spout drips for a minute or two after shutoff, then stops	Debris or minerals in the aerator	DIY: clean or replace the aerator
Spout drips constantly on a two-handle faucet that twists closed	Worn washer or scored valve seat	DIY: replace washer and seat
Spout drips constantly on a single-handle or quarter-turn faucet	Worn cartridge, or worn seats and springs	DIY: replace cartridge or seats and springs
Water pools at the spout base only while running	Worn O-rings or spout seals	DIY: replace O-rings
Water at the spout base even when off	Worn cartridge or check valve (some models)	DIY on most single-handle faucets; contact the maker for complex models
Water seeps around the handle	Worn stem or cartridge O-rings, or a loose adjusting ring (ball faucets)	DIY
Constant leak in the cabinet	Shutoff valve or supply line	DIY for supply lines; pro if the shutoff valve itself leaks
Cabinet leak only after use	Faucet hose connections	DIY with the correct manufacturer parts
Faucet body cracked or badly corroded	Faucet at end of life	Replace faucet; pro if valves need replacing

How to Fix a Leaky Faucet Step by Step

Gather these before you start so the water is off for as little time as possible:

Adjustable wrench, pliers, screwdrivers, and Allen keys
Masking tape, a rag, and an old towel
White vinegar, an old toothbrush, and plumber’s silicone grease
Replacement parts: washers and seats, seats and springs, O-rings, or a cartridge, depending on your faucet

Step 1: Try the Aerator First

If the drip stops on its own within a couple of minutes, unscrew the aerator by hand or with tape-wrapped pliers. Soak it in a 50/50 mix of warm water and white vinegar, rinse it, and screw it back on. If the drip is continuous, move on to the valve.

Step 2: Identify Your Faucet Type and Model

The fix depends on what is inside the faucet, so figure out the type before you buy anything. Use these clues:

Compression: two handles that you twist several turns and that tighten down to close.
Cartridge: one or two handles that move smoothly, often a quarter or half turn, with a cylinder inside.
Ball: a single lever sitting on a dome-shaped cap that moves in every direction.
Ceramic disc: a single lever over a wide, flat cylinder, or two handles with a short quarter turn.

Then look for the brand name on the faucet and the model number on the paperwork or the manufacturer’s site. Moen warns that its cartridges differ by model and are not interchangeable, and both Moen and Kohler offer part lookups by model number.

Step 3: Shut Off the Water and Drain the Lines

Turn both shutoff valves under the sink clockwise until they stop, then open the faucet to drain the remaining pressure. If the valves will not turn, close the main house valve instead.

Tub and shower faucets often have no local shutoff, so you will need the main valve for those. If you are working on the hot side, let the water in the line cool for a few minutes before you take anything apart.

Step 4: Plug the Drain and Protect the Sink

Close the stopper or stuff a rag in the drain so screws and springs cannot fall in. Lay out a towel and line up each part in the order you remove it.

Step 5: Remove the Handle

Pry off the decorative cap with a tape-wrapped screwdriver to reveal the handle screw; lever handles often use an Allen-key setscrew instead. Remove the screw and lift the handle straight off.

Next, unscrew the bonnet nut, packing nut, or retaining nut with an adjustable wrench. Some cartridges are also held by a U-shaped clip, so note its position before you pull it.

Step 6: Replace the Worn Parts

Pull out the stem, cartridge, or ball and take it with you to the hardware store. Matching the old part side by side is the surest way to get the right washer size or cartridge. What you replace depends on the type:

Compression: remove the screw at the bottom of the stem, replace the rubber washer with an identical one, and replace the stem O-ring. Look into the faucet body at the seat; if it is pitted or scored, remove it with a seat wrench and install a new one.
Cartridge: replace the cartridge if the spout drips, or just its O-rings if water leaks around the handle or base. Note which way the flat side or tab faced so hot and cold stay on the correct sides.
Ball: lift out the cam and ball, then pick out the rubber seats and springs with a small screwdriver and push new ones into place. Replace the body O-rings if the base leaked, and reinstall the ball with its slot over the peg.
Ceramic disc: replace the three rubber inlet seals on the bottom of the cartridge. If it still drips afterward, replace the whole cartridge.

On a two-handle faucet, start with the hot side, which Delta recommends checking first, then do the cold side if the drip continues. Clean mineral scale off the valve body with vinegar and a toothbrush, and coat new O-rings lightly with silicone grease.

Step 7: Reassemble and Test

Put the parts back in reverse order, hand-tightening nuts and then snugging them gently with the wrench. Open the shutoff valves slowly and run the faucet for a minute to flush out air. Check the spout, handle, base, and cabinet again the next morning.

Fixing Leaks Under the Sink

With the cabinet dry, run your hand along each connection to find the wet spot. Replace a supply line that is kinked, bulging, or rusted at the ends. For leaks at the faucet’s own hoses or quick-connect fittings, order the part for your model from the manufacturer.

What Not to Do

Do not crank the handle harder to stop a drip. Overtightening crushes washers and damages seats, making the leak worse.
Do not start without shutting off the water and opening the faucet to relieve pressure.
Do not buy a “universal” cartridge and hope it fits. Cartridges vary by brand and model.
Do not grip chrome or brushed finishes with bare wrench jaws. Wrap them in tape or a cloth.
Do not reinstall a ball or cartridge facing a different direction, or your hot and cold will swap sides.
Do not force a shutoff valve that is frozen in place. Turn off the main and call a plumber instead.

When to Call a Professional

Call a licensed plumber if you notice any of these:

A shutoff valve under the sink leaks, will not close, or will not turn.
Water is coming from inside the wall or floor rather than from a visible fitting.
The cabinet floor is soft, stained, or smells musty, which suggests a long-running leak.
A tub or shower valve sits behind tile with no access panel.
The handle or stem is seized and threatens to twist the pipes when you turn it.
The drip continues after you have replaced the correct parts.

For two-handle, remote-handle, or side-sprayer models with base leaks, Kohler suggests calling its customer service, since several parts may be involved. Get a written quote before any plumber starts work.

When to Replace the Whole Faucet

EPA WaterSense advises replacing a fixture if it keeps leaking after repairs. The City of Calgary’s water utility adds that a heavily corroded valve is a sign to replace the stem or the faucet rather than patch it. Replacement also makes sense when the body is cracked or parts are discontinued.

Before buying anything, check your warranty; Moen and Kohler both offer faucet and parts warranties. If you replace the faucet, look for the WaterSense label.

How to Prevent It

Close handles gently. Shut them just until the water stops.
Clean the aerator every few months if you have hard water.
Turn each under-sink shutoff valve closed and open once or twice a year so they do not seize.
Look in the sink cabinet with a flashlight during regular cleaning.
Keep a spare set of washers, O-rings, or seats and springs for your model on hand.

While you are hunting for drips, check the rest of the house too. EPA WaterSense estimates that the average household’s leaks can waste more than 9,300 gallons a year, and fixing easy leaks can cut water bills by about 10 percent. A toilet that keeps running is often the biggest offender.

The same hard water builds up in showerheads; see our guide to fixing low water pressure in the shower. A hot-water drip also wastes energy, as Michigan State University Extension notes, and water around the tank calls for our guide to a leaking water heater.

FAQ

How much water does a dripping faucet waste?

EPA WaterSense estimates that a faucet dripping once per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons a year. That is roughly the water used in 180 showers. A slower drip wastes less, but it still adds up on your water bill.

Can I fix a leaky faucet without turning off the water?

Only for the aerator, which sits outside the valve. Any repair that removes the handle, stem, or cartridge requires shutting off the supply, or water will spray out under pressure. Use the valves under the sink, or the main valve if there are none.

Why is my faucet still dripping after I replaced the cartridge?

The new cartridge may be the wrong model, installed facing the wrong way, or sitting on debris or mineral scale. Some faucets also have seats and springs or a check valve that wear separately. On two-handle faucets, make sure you fixed the side that is actually leaking.

How do I know if my faucet is a cartridge or compression type?

A compression faucet takes several turns and feels tighter as it closes. A cartridge faucet turns smoothly, often a quarter or half turn. With the handle off, a compression stem has a rubber washer on the bottom, while a cartridge is a self-contained cylinder.

Is it cheaper to fix or replace a leaky faucet?

Fixing is usually cheaper, since washers, O-rings, and seat kits cost little. Replace the faucet if the body is cracked or corroded, or it keeps leaking after repairs.

How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: Find the Cause and Replace the Part